Climbing the Grand Teton
August 19-22, 2005

Martin & Kyle Friedrichs, with John & Alycia
Samalot planned this climb along the famous,
and very exposed Exum Ridge, using the
Exum guides of Grand Teton Park, Wyoming.

Only 3 days before our climb the mountians
received a heavy snowfall.
We first went to a training (evaluation) session, where we had
to practice the local techniques that would be needed to climb
the Grand. Including repelling off a 120 foot cliff (Alycia) and
speed climbing up steep faces (Instructor & Kyle - right),
Our 1st days route was over 5,000 vertical feet up a series of
valleys to spend the night on the saddle, and then to go up the
south facing Exum ridge in the morning.
The long, long, long  hike up
We spent the night at the Exum "hut" at 11,600 feet.
It fits 21 people - as long as everyone sleeps on their side.

We wake at 3:30 a.m. to start our ascent up the Exum route
with headlights and a full moon.

(John & Alycia took the "shorter" east facing “Owensâ
€� route, but 2/3 up were turned back by ice and cold.)
Kyle
(left) and
Martin
(right)
climbing
the Exum
ridge.

Over
2000
vertical
feet
(from hut
to
summit)

Working
with
frozen
hands.

Many
pitches
with 3000
feet of
exposure.
The final section - lead by our guide Mark. A true "knife
edge" ridge, with sheer drops on both sides.

    Kyle and Martin at 13,770 feet, atop the Grand Teton.