Bryan (and friend Sean's) Climb up Quitaraju in
Peru in June 2005
- On the way in             - Bryan on Rock wall
First view of Quitaraju (19, 816 feet)           Early morning at base camp (17,000 ft) after 2 days hike
9 hour ice/snow
climb up a wall to
the ridge, at high
altitude (little
climbing the
sheer 1,700
foot north
face of

Note small
tents in upper
right of photo

see email account
of this part of
climb below

below: On top
of the ridge
19,500 feet
Bryan on Mount Chopicalchi - a
separate climb
Go to story full story of Peru trip
And that brings us to the climb. We got moving towards the base of the face at 4 30, crossing the bergshrund and
starting the route at 7 00 or so. The climb was a beautiful direct line up the center of the face, consisting of 45 to 55
degree snow. Most of the time we simulclimbed, occassionally switching leads when the snow pickets ran out and
gained the summit ridge at 12, completely exhausted. This marked the highpoint of our trip being at about 6000 meters
(19500 feet) and was pretty damn cool. We soaked up the views for a while, looked at the tromp accross the ridge to
gain the true summit and said screw that lets get the hell down. The long process of rappelling the face and hiking back
to glacier camp had us stumbling back to our respective rain fly and bivy sack at 5 pm, having been on the move for
12 hours. By this time we were just completely wasted physically and mentally, unwilling to do much of anything
besides sit down in the snow and stare. By this time a large guided group with porters and big ass tents had rolled into
glacier camp and definately got a kick out of me and sean with our sunburn, total lack of movement or speech, and
rain fly shelter. At some point I did manage to melt some snow and make a little soup then it was back under the fly
for an unpleasant night of waking up on bare snow because the big group had taken all the flat tent sites and i kept
sliding around. Thankfully the climb had sufficiently tired out sean enough to prevent him from launching an attack on
me for forgetting the tent poles.
email account of part of climb below